Naturvinmessa Vol. 4

The natural wine fair in Oslo

Date: 13th of April 2024

Location: DOGA, Oslo (Norway)

This past weekend Oslo was filled with natural wine once again as the annual "Naturvinmessa" took place for the 4th time in the city (5th edition of the fair). Created by Naturvinforbundet, a duo that shares a dedication to making a natural wine scene in Norway. They started this wine fair back in 2021 and have since become a very important part of making natural wine known in Norway.

I have attended every fair since, and I am impressed by how the fair has grown every year, but still managed to maintain the same feeling of community and top quality of wines. They brought several winemakers to the city, and Lise Aanes (author of the book "Naturvin" about natural wine in Norwegian) did talks with the winemakers throughout the day.

Below you can find 12 of my favorite orange wines from the fair. I have so many more on my list, but these are the top picks!

CHARDONNAY M

This is a wine I've been very curious about for a long time, but never gotten the chance to try. It's a bit expensive as well, so the risk has felt too big. Finally I got to taste it and oh boy, this is a big wine. Macerated Chardonnay with 30 days on the skins, 5.5 years in old barrels and the current vintage available in Norway is from 2013! I love macerated Chardonnay because it gives very interesting aromas and textures to the wine. This is a wine for special occasions!

BARBASCAT

Barbatruks is a producer to look out for if you like your wines to be full of life, vitality and natural wine power. This one is made on one of my favorite grapes, Muscat, and shows some incredible aromas with the grape. It's not a very orange wine, so I'm assuming we are talking about max one day of skin contact or maybe less. Either way, this wine hit my macerated Muscat spot and it will for you too. A must have this summer while enjoying the sun and the sea.

NIGHT POTION

Huge fan of Clos Lentiscus, and it was lovely to see Nuria again at the fair! This is their new orange wine, and it's one that even people who don't like orange wine might still like. It's very easy-going, tropical, fruity, sexy, and fun. I recommend having this at your next dinner party, going to the park or enjoying a day at the beach. Just be careful, it might get empty sooner than you think!

ENCARINYADES

Còsmic Vinyaters makes some really good orange wines, and this one is no exception. It's been around for a while, but not always mentioned as much. It's a mix of the three types of Carignan, mostly dominant in Carignan Blanc (80%), with 15% Carignan (red wine grape) and a touch of Carignan Gris (5%). Skin contact for them all, which turns this into the red wine of orange wine. Looking at it you will think it's a juicy red wine, but is is so much more. I recommend this for those who like light reds and want to try an orange wine.

FINITO

This was the absolute highlight for me at the fair. I've tried a little bit of Mythopia before, but never the orange wines. They are expensive and rare, so this was a very special opportunity for me. I love a bold, strong, rich and complex orange wine (in the Gravner/Friuli style preferably). Made from Johannesburg Riesling with 9 months of carbonic maceration, Finito from Mythopia is the same quality and style as Gravner - but in it's own unique way. There is so much to discover with this one, everything from marmalade to spices, curry, honey, herbs, mountain air, and so much more. If you want to treat yourself or someone you know that loves a heavy orange wine, this is it.

DISOBEDIENCE

The little brother of Finito, this orange wine made on the Chasselas grape in a more oxidative style that is a lighter version of Finito, but still full of flavor and complexity. It's more earthy, and has the typical oxidative notes of honey and nuts, but also full of complex fruit aromas. If you can't find Finito, or want something equally as complex, but just a notch lighter, this is your choice.

SAFARI

This one is a fun mix of Schödl's grape varieties, including Grüner Veltliner (40%), Welschriesling (30%), Muscat (20%), and Weißburgunder (10%). All the grapes except for the Muscat was macerated with whole bunches for some hours. The Muscat grapes got 10 days of skin contact, which is where a lot of the deeper aromatics in this wine comes from. I love this producer for their fresh and accessible wines, but also for their nice prices. This one is a perfect wine for summer, whether its a picnic in the park or on the beach.

CHENIN BLANC

It's not your typical Australian wine, and it's not your typical Chenin Blanc. Low-yielding vines that are very concentrated and split into two portions. One group gets 3 weeks of whole bunch carbonic maceration, then footstomped and pressed to old French oak barrels for 6 months. The other portion is destemmed and macerated with the skins for 1 day before pressed to old French oak as well. This mix together gives you are very tasty and concentrated expression of Chenin Blanc with lots of florality and minerality. It should definitely be with you at your next party.

SALTY WHITE

I'm a huge fan of The Hermit Ram, and I think everything they make is worth trying. Salty White was my favorite when I discovered them back in 2021, and still to this day it's on my top list of orange wines I like to drink again and again. In the previous vintage (2021) this was a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Muller-Thurgau. Now in 2022 it's a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, and Riesling. Everything is fermented in whole bunches, then one part goes into stainless steel, one part in amphora, and then two barrels are filled (and not topped up) to developed flor. Everything is then blended together before bottling, giving you this incredible wine that's rich in saltiness, nuttiness, yellow fruit, a bit tropical and full of minerality as well. It drinks so well, but never stops surprising you. It also works wonders with a lot of food as well, especially foods rich in umami.

KALKUNDKIESEL

Claus Preisinger knows how to make good natural wine, and most people who get to know his wines often find a favorite or three among his portfolio. Kalkundkiesel Weiss is a fun mix of Muscat Blanc (5%), Welschriesling (5%), Weissburgunder (45%), and Grüner Veltliner (45%). The name, Kalk und Kiesel, translates to Limestone and Gravel and gives you a hint about what this wine wants to express. The skin contact for this wine is not very dominant, but it's there in the background and in the structure. What I love about this wine is that it's so versatile. I've had it with friends where we just drink and enjoy without really thinking much about the wine, and I have had it where I have enjoyed and savoured every sip. It's a great entry-level orange wine for someone who likes a fresh and citrusy crisp Austrian wine style.

CONTACT SGS

Patrick Bouju is a famous man in the world of natural wine and he is a part of the new project Vivanterre. We recently got their portfolio in Norway, and I must say that these wines do not disappoint. All of them well worth a try, and don't be fooled by the pretty label design and good marketing - the quality is absolutely there. Contact is a blend of Auxerois (30%), Pinot Blanc (30%), Gewurztraminer (20%), Ugni Blanc (10%), and Grenache Gris (10%). The first three grapes gets 3 weeks of skin contact, while the two 10%-ers get around 2 weeks. It's a very well made wine, super balanced and fruity with lot's of peach and litchi that is dangerously easy to drink.

MOONHILL FARM

Hiyu is a new producer to me that I tasted for the first time at the fair, but one I am very happy I finally discovered. An Oregon based producer that makes some truly unique wines, and both of the wines I got to try blew my mind completely. Tzum Moonhill Farm III is made of mostly Chardonnay (80%) with some Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir for the remaining 20%. I would never have guessed this blend, which is due to how it is made. It is a solera blend going back to 2015, and the grapes get whole cluster fermentation for what I assume is some weeks. If you like the style of Jura whites, you will love this. It's not your typical orange wine, but if you like the oxidative style and a deeply complex and rich orange wine structure, this is your choice. Yes, it is very expensive, but I would say it's worth it for a special occasion.

Thank you Naturvinforbundet for an amazing wine fair once again, can't wait for next year!